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Pinhead
Joined: 31 Oct 2005
Posts: 146
Location: Kansas City, KS
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Posted:
Sat Apr 08, 2006 9:02 pm |
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I'm a member of various horsepower and mpg research forums and I've found a few add-ons and changes that can be made to a vehicle to improve both horsepower and fuel economy. This one seems the best.
The forum thread that describes and discusses this topic is here:
http://mpgresearch.com/viewtopic.php?t=160
From http://www.fueleconomytips.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=73&Itemid=43
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| Let’s say your engine has racked up way too many miles and you’re debating whether to buy another vehicle or rebuild the old engine. I found a trick so simple and inexpensive (once you have the heads off) that after reading what it does, you’ll want to rip into your perfectly good engine just to try it! With this simple trick, the engine feels 20% to 50% bigger yet runs 20% to 50% more efficiently! It works on gas and diesel, 2 and 4 stroke engines. The best part is many of you will be able to add this extra mod during your engine rebuild for FREE! Still, those of you less confident in your mechanical abilities should be able to have it done for $50 or less. |
The developer's website is here: http://somender-singh.com/
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| After this simple design change - Obsolete Side Valve engines which feature large quench areas - when fully loaded to the max at 2000 rpms on a dyno have shown a reduction of 42.5 % fuel consumption ( BSFC) and further producing more torque & power at lower operating temperatures in comparison to a stock engine. |
Engine Legend Pat Goodman says:
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| Remember the most important factor in increasing engine performance and efficiency is to create maximum turbulence in the compression chamber. |
42.5% fuel reduction... If you've got a bike that gets 50mpg and you increase that by 42.5%, than you'll get 21.25 additional mpg. That means you'll be getting 71mpg! That's in addition to the added horsepower and torque. You're not dumbing down the engine, you're making it more efficient.
After my accident that totaled out my motorcycle, I'll have plenty of time to work on the old junker. I'll probably end up spending more money than the bike's worth, but the experience experimenting with this will prove valuable when I get my next bike.
From http://somender-singh.com/content/view/16/37/ :
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After many great conversations with Mr. Singh and following his advice I have done half a dozen 2 stoke engines and 1, 4 stroke engine. The torque and fuel increases are phenomenal.
In the mountains my Artic Cat M7 climbs at approx. 30% faster than 800 Rev’s and has no problem with 900 and that is down 7 jet sizes. (see groovy image below)
On a stock 1981 465 YZ 250 Suzuki dirt bike it will now pull up the front end, one gear taller and pulls the front end in 5th anytime that you want it. It also has great wide power band through all gears.
Results:
Now I can outrun the 900's with my 700cc |
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Pinhead
Joined: 31 Oct 2005
Posts: 146
Location: Kansas City, KS
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Posted:
Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:54 am |
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Nobody wants more power and better fuel economy? Absolutely no interest at all?? |
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kdanie
Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 119
Location: Petaluma CA
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Posted:
Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:08 pm |
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I've seen this used on aircooled VW's with great results... I'll give it a try if I ever tear my engine down.
I'm a big fan of close piston to head clearance to promote turbulance, this is a further development. I'm not really sure how much of the A/F mixture is "blown out" of the ring land area though.... No way to really see what's going on when the engine is running so it's just speculation.
I also like the high tech ceramic coatings on piston tops/valve heads/combustion chambers/exhaust ports, it keeps the heat in the combustion chamber rather than transfering it to the metal.
ken |
_________________ '82 v45 Sabre
Custom headers ARE my bag, baby... |
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chumley
Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 277
Location: Northern NJ
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Posted:
Tue Apr 11, 2006 12:33 am |
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Pinhead,
The maximum gains are from really inefficient engines. Side Valve engines get the most out of this. This is your basic Briggs and Stratton Engine. The ones without the valves in the head.
The thing is, a B&S engine of about the same displacement as our CB360 has about 5 HP. We have 34 or so. So we already have a fairly efficient engine.
If you look around some more (I had a while ago, so I no longer have the links) you may find some pictures. The inventer of this had piles of heads that didn't work or made things worse. He was using old engines and doing a lot of "research".
I believe he is on to something, and gains can be had, but your chances of ruining the head are better than improving it at this point. Somender-Singh had a lot of failures before he had some successes. So while his ideas are intrigueing, unless you don't mind ruining the head on your bike, I'd stick to conventional techniques that have been proven and are more exact.
Another little thing is that we have aluminum heads. The grooves may cause melting of the aluminum due to hot spots. This techmique is better suited to cast iron or steel heads.
My 0.02 anyway... |
_________________ Richard - Fully Dressed
Naked 1976 CB360T (Work in Progress)
Naked 1991 Nighthawk 750 (My New Ride) |
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